New Water in an Old Place

I started out under the Davis bridge far too early in the afternoon.  It’s a short run, a quick fish, a place to spend some time while the shade settles on the better water upstream.  I walked down in shorts and wading boots through an acre of dried thistles, blackberries and hundred degree heat – just the thing to toughen up the skin on the lower legs.

It’s still fishing the same as it was last year, but, save for the shadow of the bridge, the orientation of the river here keeps it too exposed, unlike December when this place never sees the sun all day.  But it was a chance to try a different rod with a sinktip.  This rod had given me some frustration in an earlier outing in the wind, so I wanted to give it a chance under better conditions.  I was in the groove with it now and found I could fish the entire river with the double spey and a much slower timing than the rod I left back up in the truck.  The wind was nearly non-existent and the smoke was creeping in over the ridges from seemingly all directions.  I did a pass through and decided to head up the road to the trail and walk into a favorite spot.  Upon arrival, a car was parked there, and although there is plenty of water to access from the trail, I decided to head back downstream to explore some new water that I had heard promising things about.  I like giving people space and only hope they can do it for me from time to time.

Since it was getting on in the evening, I knew I would be “committing” to this place since it was a short walk downstream and the upstream run was already occupied – it’s about that time of year when folks from far and wide start arriving – plus, it’s Friday – I was mentally prepared for this by having a pocketful of options to fish should one or the other be occupied.  I didn’t feel like having company tonite.  The water in question is at the end of a long pool/glide the size of a couple of soccer fields.  The water scoots along painfully slow until it spills over through a maze of small riffles and bedrock outcrops.  This spot changes from year to year even in a low water year like we just had.  Right before spilling over the riffle, the water picks up speed and has the potential for good holding water.

The thing about fishing new water is the unknown quantity that lies before you.  In familiar runs, the best lies are usually known and focused on at just the right time.  These are the places fished with a certain efficiency.  If the familiar place doesn’t yield fish, we are left to assume that the river is “slow.”  Sometimes fishing new water requires an I-don’t-care mood.  If I can find myself in this mood then I can usually settle down and be more methodical about the fishing rather than wasting myself with thoughts of “I should’ve gone elsewhere.”

I probably started too high on the tailout.  By the time I got into the faster, fishier looking water, it was getting dark.  A few bright salmon rolled in the moving water – suggesting that it did indeed hold fish.  The water was a much different layout than I’d seen before.  I couldn’t really find what I would call a sweet spot, but it looked good, nonetheless.  After a solid grab, I switched over to the skating fly – again, in the “I-don’t-care” mood and just wanting to see what was down here at the bottom of all this flat water.  Nothing on the skater – but the fixation with watching that fly skid across the water’s surface knowing that at any time all hell could break loose underneath is entertainment in itself.  Nearly time to go and I switched back over to a spider and landed a sassy half-pounder.  By the time I got to the bottom, an almost full moon was peeking over the trees.

I don’t feel like I had a chance to really fish the run – it deserves another trip and provides an excellent late evening backup to the oft-fished run above.  I shall return.

Notes on the food prepared for this trip:  Since food is such an integral part of this season, I should mention that prior to leaving I was able to use some of the potent brandywine tomatoes mixed with a little sliced garlic, pepper and tossed with olive oil, sea salt and basil.  There is a fellow at the Saturday market that has, hands-down the best tomatoes – they are small but full of a sweet tangy flavor that makes even those of us who are not tomato disciples take notice. Taken to the river on ice and eaten chilled in only a small amount it is the perfect compliment to a warm September afternoon.

Diced tomatoes and a wee bit of sliced garlic tossed with olive oil, basil leaves, pepper and sea salt provides the perfect little pick-me-up on the river.
Diced tomatoes and a wee bit of sliced garlic tossed with olive oil, basil leaves, pepper and sea salt provides the perfect little pick-me-up on the river.
Looking upstream from the tailout - a smokey sky and lots of wide open flat water. I will prbably return here to better learn the water that lies behind where I'm standing.
Looking upstream from the tailout - a smoky sky and lots of wide open flat water. I will probably return here to better learn the water that lies behind where I stand.

A Passing Summer Returns

DRAFT In progress………

In August,

we thought we had forgotten.

And upon arrival,

We realized we had to just continue.

“I will never leave you.”

Whispers old lady summer.

By September, a rhythm

Only upset by a single cold morning.

“Aren’t I beautiful?”

In October a hope arises,

None of this will end.

“Stand by me, my sweets.”

By November,

Moments can be perfect, fragile, then lost.

“Please, not now… Why?”

In December,

The last leaf falls

On a rising wind

And we hope we will never forget.

“Because we will meet again.”

Looking upstream from the North-South run, a thickening storm at sunset paints a mid-October sky. Back home, they thought we were just goofy boys playing with fish. To those who knew, who really knew, they could tell you it had little to do with the fish…
Looking upstream from the North-South run, a thickening storm at sunset paints a mid-October sky. Back home, they thought we were just goofy boys playing with fish. To those who knew, who really knew, they could tell you…

Intoxicants

The smell of black berries fermenting on the vine is sweet and syrupy – the result of daytime temperatures pushing one hundred degrees.  A wall of smoke hangs down in the gorge with a spotter plane and occasional air tanker dropping in low.  The half pounders grab hard and as the night bugs start to sing, so does my reel as a small adult yanks hard and long.  My first adult steelhead on the two-handed rod – small by any standards, but made up for with a hard grab and long, finger rapping run.  He was sitting right in the seam where I had nabbed a few last year and this was my second pass through the run for the evening – one of those nights when I left work with the intent of fishing only one spot at just the right time.  A river to myself, no wind, fish landed and a crescent moon on the horizon coming home after dark.

Air heavy with sweet, syrupy aroma of late summer black berries, still in tee-shirt, the night bugs just starting to sing, and an adult steelhead just released... add in a half dozen half pounders. Does it get much better than this?
Photos do little here.  The air heavy with the sweet, syrupy aroma of late summer black berries, still in tee-shirt, the night bugs just starting to sing, and an adult steelhead just released... add in a half dozen half pounders - Does it get much better than this?

A summer evening spent knee deep

Made the decision about noon today… called a friend and we were off over the hill, bound for warmer climes along the river.  His mission was to fill the truck (or expend his back, whichever came first) with landscaping rocks and mine was to stand knee deep in the river trying to find a steelhead.  We succeeded on both counts, but the rocks far outweighed and outnumbered the fish to hand (only one).  I was daydreaming when a freight train of a steelhead grabbed my fly at the end of the swing, dashed downstream and came unbuttoned all in an instant – a solid fish but never saw more than the initial boil.  Ended up with one half pounder landed and a couple of other missed grabs.  There were definitely a ‘few’ fish around – a slow evening by catching standards, but once the sun was off the water, the caddis came off thick and the river came alive with bugs and juvenile fish gorging themselves to a backdrop of singing frogs, crickets and miscellaneous birds.  Best of all, the wind died down way early – leaving a warm, calm evening – shirtsleeve comfort.  I found myself in a great meditative rhythm with snap-T casting, so the fish were an add-on bonus, though I was muttering profanities to myself when I missed that one fish – my once chance – no instant replays allowed.  It’s exactly the kind of evening that keeps me coming back.

A truckload of rocks gathered along the river.
A truckload of rocks gathered along the river.
Looking upstream from halfway through the run as the sun slips behind the last hill - signaling the onset of the witching hour.
Looking upstream from halfway through the run as the sun slips behind the last hill - signaling the onset of the witching hour.
Swinging through the honey pot of the run at just about the right time. It was here, my fly hanging on the dangle, that I was caught daydreaming by a freight train. Guess I'll need to go back.
Swinging through the honey pot of the run at just about the right time. It was here, my fly hanging on the dangle, that I was caught daydreaming by a freight train.

Summer returns, tropical storms brew and fizzle and a new job looms

No fishing this evening.  The front passed through this morning, wetting the streets with heavy drizzle that quickly vanished with sunrise.  In it’s wake, fresh northwest winds kicked in – not a good situation.  It’s supposed to return to smokin’ hot conditions over the hill for the rest of the week.  Even if the river cools down overnight, the wind will probably be ferocious tomorrow.

Tropical storm Julio formed off the west coast of Mexico and began to migrate north.
Tropical storm Julio formed off the west coast of Mexico and began to migrate north.

I often wonder if these tropical storms of the eastern Pacific that form this time of year ever make it up to northern California and produce significant rainfall.  Unlike the east coast where remnant hurricanes will occasionally barrel up to New England and wreak havoc – I’ve never seen or heard of such a scenario here on the west coast.  Any geologic or stratigraphic evidence of a large, early season mega-rainfall producer would be hard, if not impossible, to separate from other storms that come later in the year. I might have to one day take a look at some long running rainfall records and look for large rainfall events in August/September and try and track down their origins.

Regardless, this afternoon Julio was downgraded to a tropical depression and began to wash out sending some impressive looking thunderstorms into Arizona.  Today’s discussion indicated a long range chance of some thunderstorms moving up our way – but it’s a long way off – both in time and space – and likely won’t be anything organized for widespread, prolonged rainfall.  Oh well, time to enjoy some more summer tomatoes or run down to Arizona and chase flash floods.

The big news is that this is my last week at my current job.  I’ve been there for 10 years and it’s time to move on – moving all the way across the parking lot to a different building – and a new group of co-workers.  Of course, in my mind, the first order of business is to get a feel for how flexible I can make my schedule and still get away with it.  I’m told it’s very flexible – so we will see if afternoon river trips are still a viable option.  One of the benefits of a long time job is that you come to understand when you can and can’t bail out on short notice.  Hopefully I can figure this out quickly because it’s about that time.  Don’t get me wrong – I’m into my work – I just have competing priorities.

A dying cold front and a sunset is born

I was up on campus this evening – I walked outside to the warm glow of a spectacular apricot-hued sky.  Layers of clouds were each catching the last rays of the sun painting watercolor stripes across the western sky.  I wish I woulda had my camera but wouldn’t have captured the scale of it.  The ingredients were perfect.  An approaching storm is fizzling out – sending broken layers of clouds towards the coast.  The afternoon forecast discussion reads as follows:

AREA FORECAST DISCUSSION...CORRECTED
 NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE EUREKA CA
 505 PM PDT SUN AUG 24 2008

.SYNOPSIS...A WEAKENING COLD FRONT WILL WASH ON SHORE
OVER THE REDWOOD COAST AND NORTHERN INTERIOR TONIGHT
INTO MONDAY...BRINGING  PERIODS OF DRIZZLE AND PATCHY
LIGHT RAIN TO DEL NORTE AND NORTHERN HUMBOLDT COUNTIES.
COOL TEMPERATURES TUESDAY MORNING WILL BE FOLLOWED BY
A SHARP WARM UP WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY AREA WIDE...

“Washing ashore” is the perfect description.  Meanwhile, high up overhead, our neighborhood weather satellite captures the infrared image showing the bands of clouds filtering towards the coast.

An approaching cold front washes out along the west coast - resulting in a spectacular sunset for those who happened to be outside this evening.
An approaching cold front washes out along the west coast - resulting in a spectacular sunset along its southeastern margins for those who happened to be outside this evening.

If it cools down inland overnight, that means tommorrow will be a day to bail out of late afternoon work responsibilities and go swing a two-handed rod on some river somewhere.  A true harbinger of fall passing through but the longer forecast shows triple digit temperatures returning later in the week – a typical August feint.  But it will only get better from here.

On the Coming of Storms

Reminiscing on Fall Steelhead

Somewhere in August a subtle change happens. One morning dawns cooler than the last. Maybe it lasts a day, maybe three, then the notion is lost in the incessant summer. Nothing of real importance happens now, except maybe noting a yellowing cottonwood leaf hanging from a branch. Finally, well into August, I realize there is no turning back now and the best time of year is at hand.

Over the hill and away from the coast, the relentless heat holds fast – lasting well into September and often October. I remember sunsets along the coast when far off webs of cirrus clouds would hold low on the horizon hinting at some far off storm and the reminder that winter is not far off. But these can be days of agony – days I spend with a sense that all of summer’s delights are now out of reach, even though I well know that many more weeks lie ahead. All the while, the fog-shrouded, chilly mornings I remember of seasons well underway seem impossible now. As the days go by, as summer hangs on, I wonder if they will ever come this year. Sometime, not long after, in a fit of desperation, the decision is made to make the annual pilgrimage over the hill, to return to the river. I do not have high hopes of hooking a steelhead, after all, summer is still holding fast. This is a journey to prove that something really is happening. Continue reading “On the Coming of Storms”

A Late August Raindrop on the Way

Tuesday, August 19.  I couldn’t resist the forecast: cloudy skies with a chance of rain.  Yes, rain.  Over the hill it had been pushing triple digits.  Now, October-like weather was to make a brief appearance.  I jumped on the opportunity – sneaking out of work a wee bit early, grabbing a rod and fly wallet and wheeling inland.  The river temps were dropping to below 70 (ouch that’s warm water!!!), so hopefully any fish hooked and released were likely to revive.  (check out temps at the Yurok’s Real-Time Monitoring Page).

Sure enough, cloudy skies prevailed, though the rain drops could be counted in the dozens (thankfully, because I had left my jacket back in the truck).  What transpired shall remain unposted… suffice it to say there are a few early running fish in the river.  I will leave it at that.  Also of note is the lack of wind that evening – the normally ferocious and unrelenting afternoon winds up the river had been knocked down by the approaching storm.  It’s so nice to leave the river at dark, warm and calm, with the crickets chirping amonst the dry grass.  We just don’t get that here on the coast.  I can’t wait to get back!