The Steelhead Shakes – Five Months Later

The first fish, always exciting, extra-special and often unexpected, can always be enamored with “hard-earned”, “worked-for”, “overdue”, or some such portrayal of time and effort. When it’s the first fish of the season, it’s like reconnecting with a long gone friend in the way familiar and new can intertwine. When it’s on one of those I’ll-drive-over-and-just-check-things-out kind of evenings it suddenly fits perfectly into some grand script only vaguely remembered. When it bests my record for earliest adult steelhead caught in this river, it stands worthy of note if only because time itself demands some recognition of movement.

A pulse of water over the last few days measurably cooled off a river that wilts in the oppressive heat of late summer. I decided to swing a floating line and a classic low-water spey modeled after the Lady Caroline changed up with pheasant rump wing and hackle in a more orange shade. One of those setups that feels classy anyd cool – the way steelhead are meant to be fished for.

I love the low swept wing and short body of a more classic low-water style spey fly. This is tied with pheasant rump for the wing and hackle and my always trusty alpaca wool for body. Sleek – just like the fish it was built to catch.

The first fish barely gave me enough time to get back into the casting groove and settle into the rhythm of the river. The hard tugging boil, a clicking reel and for a moment there’s a bit of disbelief this is all really happening. I get it in quickly, grab a quick photo and wonder what’s next. I fish down past the bucket, into water I rarely connect in, despite it’s fishy appeal. I’ve stood here easily a hundred times and the line is always the same – one more step and swing and I’m outta here. That’s when it all happens again, the soild tug, boil and a broad flash of silver across the surface before it all goes slack. Whoa.
Always save the top of upper N-S for when the light is just right. Don’t fish it too early, the water is too skinny to chance spooking fish. Do one pass through and make it count. Halfway through, the fish is into the backing before the next breath. Lift into it and it turns upstream, lunging heavy and surely through the fast water – the sound of line peeling through the water. Working it over to the shallows and the fish comes unbuttoned – simple as that.

First steelhead of the season – all before I could even catch my breath and settle into the river’s rhythm.

That’s when the much sought after steelhead shakes start to creep in. It’s hard to maintain composure and calm in these situations – like 32 ounces of espresso delivered directly into a nervous system now on edge. But that would be the last grab of the evening. A first night out, a familiar place and a fish that will be remembered for the rest of the year.

Uppermost N-S. Stood here a hundred times at least and it’s always a treat.

Quick River note: Reconciling Summer and Fall

August 12 and the first fall steelhead are showing at customary places in the valley. I’ve been intermittently snorkeling a couple of reaches: watching the spring run Chinook move up as the flows dropped in early July. I saw my first steelhead in late July – two adults skirting around me in the faster water. Today a pair sat on a tailout in the broad heat of the day – I could have duped one of them with a skating fly at dark if I had brought a rod and waited it out – but no regrets – plenty of time. Otherwise, a couple of fish were spotted in the faster water where spotting was difficult. Typical smaller adults, but the harbinger of the upcoming fall. Now it’s just a matter of waiting for a cool down for a couple of days to bring on more comfortable water temperatures. August 19 is my magic day when a weak front passed over, cooling things down and unleashing a wave of biting fish. Thus, we sit one week away from the potential kickoff of fall steelhead season. Maybe sooner, maybe later. Much summer still looms. Will do another snorkel pass next week and see how things are progressing….

Of note was the fact that the fish were holding in faster water – not surprising, but I didn’t see fish in the belly of the runs where I’ve come accustomed to focusing effort. These high lies probably reflect water temperature and need for cover and my own desire to fish the “easier” water in the bucket of the run.

Summer Bantering

How were we taught summer?

Watermelon seeds,

dusty roads,

secret swimming holes

and long afternoon yawns?

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Did we find summer along the river?

Where the smell of cool water

Wafts up into dry grass

Now pungent in the early afternoon heat.

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Or did summer arrive on an afternoon breeze?

Shaking loose memories

of ice cream cones

and three-month loves.

Who knows?

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I think summer is more like the unrehearsed fibs

From a sweet toothed kid

Skipping stones across the river.

Oblivious to mom’s dinner calls,

But keen on the subtle aroma

of strawberry shortcake.

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Or, was summer announced by the lazy wind chimes?

Their faint tolling, skipping a long beat,

Echoing across the empty porch,

And fading into places where time,

all stubborn and worn,

Sways in the rhythms between

Cicadas and sleeping dogs?

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Surely summer is chattering creeks,

Long golden vistas,

Soft rattles of leaves,

Hot wind through grass,

The quiet hiss of a garden sprinkler.

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And let’s not forget the cricket

And its solo serenade of evening.

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Then again, maybe all this summer stuff

is just the long yawn

Between someplace new

and someplace remembered.

Portrait of a Simple Summer Meal

A groggy mix of chili, ginger, salted blackbean and enough sugar, sesame and soy rounds out a sauce that will cook the outer bits to pure, crispy ocean bacon perfection and hold together the inside flesh in a buttery smooth celebration of salmon.

Don’t cook the salmon too long! Just get it HOT. Get it where it just sets up inside. It’s done! This is soft eating: bites of spicy, sweet, held up by preserved black beans and faintly perfumed with ginger and garlic. No chewing allowed … bite gently down and let it all come forth playing with each of the flavors mixing with the bits of crispy outside. Chinook salmon is rarely better.

And the green beans … bright green, early season, snappy tender just-can’t-turn away invitations. Steam them gently and they will reward even the most indifferent of us green bean wanna-be-lovers. Haste may be the order here! Toss generously in fruity olive oil, flat parsley along with that young, sweet onion just pulled and maybe a dash of pepper for good measure. Sea salt pulls it all together. Set it in the hot oven while the salmon finishes none too soon. This is one step past warmed but well shy of what might be considered “cooked”.

The crusty bread is just a vehicle for fragrant basil, green garlic, and shaved parmesan with a bit o’ butter under it all. It adds a needed chew to the party.

Small bites are the rule all around.

Dessert follows suit: the first tree ripened peaches of summer. The kind with a firm give under the weight of a finger. Sliced with the sharpest of knives and tossed with this morning’s strawberries and raspberries under a dollop of goat yogurt.

Somewhere along the way, life slips into the sublime….

note: this started out as another poem trying to capture a moment in time… I’m not sure where it landed: somewhere between recipe, description and an attempt to share a little food joy. These basic meals, when everything is still quivering from the vine, branch or water have the uncanny ability to stop time altogether….

Permit Part 2- Wilt or Persist

The fly lands spot on. Sinking where it needs to sink: three feet in front of a tailing permit. The fish moves on. Maybe I should have cast right on top of it. Maybe farther to the right. Maybe it’ll show up farther down the flat. I should have cast a bit further.

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The next fish eagerly roots around in the coral debris littering the bottom. A cast right to its nose instantly spooks it. I quickly retrieve for another cast, just as the fish wheels around for another look at the rude intruder into it’s space: too late, it sees the crab hauling out of the water and bolt for places far gone.

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The wind dies to nothing, a tail glistens in the sunlight far down the flat. Now we slip over the aquarium this place has become. Every piece of this place seems magnified now in the slick watery lens. We are voyeurs of another world. As we come close, a small school of permit slides onto the flat. Their mere presence, the wakes, the suddenly crowded scape sends every fish bolting in all directions. Fish spook fish as the heat wilts everything that it meets.

 

Now the wind pulls hard, never letting up, tethered to some rope that tugs waves, water and a fish or two onto the flats. Their sides, the black sweep of their tails, their presence is given away in the trough between waves. Now it might be easy, but they move on, never seeing what I offered, or maybe crabs weren’t expected to rain from the heavens just now.

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It’s the first sight, the unmistakable shimmering, sparkling arc of tail into air, into sun, into possibilities. It’s the hope that it all goes right, one chance, maybe two? Be mindful, patient and deliberate. There it is again, easy. The tip, the tail, the wind, the waves, and an enormous slack line that will not come tight before it ends to become yet another replay in a list of how many things are just not quite ….

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Onwards, again…. we persist….

The wind drops off to nothing and we are instant voyeurs into a world only hinted at under wind and wave.

Tarpon – Jump 1

The south end of the caye forms a big crescent. Here the water seems almost stagnant, tea-stained. We might call it frog water anywhere else. Stare long enough into the depths and the bottom appears to move. Move it does, as tight schools of tiny baitfish swim along giving the appearance of a solid bottom. It only then that the full implications of this place come clear: either bait are here to spawn on the big columns of algae that tower upwards along the margins, or they have been herded in here at first light by schools of tarpon. It doesn’t take long before the tarpon come back up to gulp air, before slowly returning down deep. Wounded bait float in the water column. In late afternoon, the tarpon are rolling everywhere; in the middle deeps, along the edges and on the flats that surround the hole. In the morning the bait fish skitter along the surface, sounding like waves of rain. Look under the boat and tarpon might be seen slowly cruising through the masses, scattering them in every direction. Everything seems slow here. Maybe it’s the heat.

Come here at first light and see pelicans and other birds raining out of the sky. Tarpon slash across the flats in a surface frenzy that might last five minutes before things settle into a slow, day-long pace.

Cast to where a pod of 70 pound fish has just surfaced, a slow strip, maybe two… or maybe it happens on the sink. The grab is hard, the first jump chaotic and loud. If the hook holds through the first jump, then there’s a good chance of bringing one boatside. If not, there’s the rush of four to five feet of fish airborne and heading for Cuba before it all goes quiet and slow again.

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Permit – Part 1

“Mon! You’re F-U-C-K-I-N-G falling apart!” yells Julian across the wind whipped flats. “What the fuck is happening to you!?”

Yesterday I was getting high praise for hitting my targets. Many casts were deliciously downwind and spot on to several fish that either wouldn’t eat, spooked or just do what permit do and move on. Now I’m wondering why in the hell I traveled all this way to get yelled at.

The tails glisten briefly in the sunlight before disappearing farther down the flat. We walk swiftly in pursuit. These damned fish just won’t sit tight to give me a chance to get in a favorable position for a more downwind cast. The tide is running out and the sun is setting. The door is closing. My casts continually fold into the stiff northeast breeze, falling well short of a small school of permit. I trudge forth, thigh deep trying to give myself enough time to breathe and set up before the school moves on again, 80-foot casts headfirst into this crazy wind aren’t my thing. Days of sun, wind, and heat have exhausted me both mentally and physically. My own coup de grâce seems at hand. I’m a mess.

In a moment of frustration I hand the rod to Julian, just so he can know how tough it is at this angle. “Here, let’s see you try this.” He fires a razor tight loop into the wind, landing squarely on target. Shit. I’ve lost my rhythm. Five days on the flats has left me empty. It’s late afternoon. My last day out here. I’m tired. My hands are blistered from previous days of casting and saltwater soakings. I’m ready to hang it up, I got what I came for. I can just walk away from all this now and still call it a success.

One last time, a deep breath, and the cast somehow pierces the wind, falling along the edge of the school. A short strip and the line comes taught on a fish. I’m running down the flat now, rod held high, weaving this fish through coral heads along the way. These fish, even these smaller school fish are incredibly hot, going deep into the backing before you can catch up and hope for the best. Finally, after a long mad dash, the fish comes back on to the flats where I can tire it quickly and bring it to hand. Game over.

Image

Dial tones

I come here for the wide open space,

Where the river flows across the valley

To the coastal lowlands.

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This is where I wanted to be,

but now the reality of all this space

Bites hard.

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A dying afternoon breeze swirls chilled gusts

Into my face, down my neck,

Into my bones.

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Off west a big wall of fog rolls across the lowlands

Swallowing up everything.

A giant dark wave that might stifle the wind,

Or send it running in every direction.

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Standing hip deep in the chilled water doesn’t help.

My legs have stiffened to stifle a shiver.

And I’m hopelessy hunched over

Like an old man worn by years of toil.

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The water is still off-colored, just clear enough,

Seducing me with clear green edges,

Closer, now, the brown-tinged center hides the river,

Calling for a painfully methodical pace,

So things can see and be seen.

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Here the river sweeps long against the bedrock cliff,

Tracing a classic slot for winter steelhead to sit.

Sitting and doing whatever they do.

Waiting?

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Minutes ago, this water gave up a ten pounder to me.

Now I’m hunting for another.

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Another grab at the fly, a quick swipe as the fly

Hangs down below me

In the deep seam at the edge of the slot.

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The cliff along the far bank is overhung by ferns,

All dripping steadily into the sweetest water,

Like a dial tone maybe,

Waiting for the ring…

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Another cast, another half step,

Repeat.

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Another swipe.

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Now the failing wind lets moments of glassy stillness

Cover everything

Just for a moment, before another push up the valley,

Announcing it’s coming by the ripples pushing up the long run.

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A third tag, this time just a peck.

The cold gets forgotten

Just for a moment.

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The fish rolls down below me, showing silver

Before disappearing back down,

Into the greenish brown mystery world where fish sit and wait,

Waiting for strange-looking concoctions

The quickest glance of feather and fur swimming past.

A Private Steelhead Room

Again, it’s the kind of water that calls you to it. The river is a deep, mysterious milky green, that seems to glow in the early morning light. This is water where big, silvery fish can move about hidden in the greenish shadows, true ghosts of the river. Everything seems to move here. The river hums along with some urgency. A hurried electricity fills the air. My heart rate won’t slow down. A fish rolls in the deep slot and, again, I spend too much time trying to swing a fly down deep when I should be walking to the broader swing waters below. I finally yield the water to a drift boat coming down. It’s as good of a motivation as any. Later, on my hike out, they float by me and inform me that they had gotten five fish out of that hole. They thank me again for letting them fish though.

The first fish comes as if it were some logical extension of the morning – just a continuation of the electricity that hangs in the air. The channel splits with half the river tracing slots along each bank – take your pick. The fish sits along a bedrock knob that juts out of the channel. The green water just seems to intensify and a sustained heart rate seems to hasten things along, not helping a festering impatience. Every cast is deliberate, each heart beat felt, with the morning becoming one long, wicked moment teetering between craving and satisfaction.

Further down river, I break a fish off on a bad knot – actually an old knot that I should have retied before even rigging up. Lesson learned for the 63rd time. A couple taps doing the long swing through the tail out then down to the long run where the valley walls pinch the river close. Here the river briefly turns to the northeast with the sun barely peeking over the hills. Water sounds echo off the valley walls making for a full and sustained hiss and a dripping seep on the far bank keeps the beat. This is like having a private steelhead room. Sheltered, dimly lit, and 150 yards of textbook swing water set in a rapturous chorus of moving water that never stops. My heart rate settles down. A rhythm is established. Home on a mid-winter river.

All things new

In summary: New rod, swung flies (mostly sparse, small purple intruders), the hard stop on the swing only to pull up to pulsing mayhem deep into the wood and cartwheeling antics sounding like a pig fallen into the river. Sassy, spunky, salty chromium beauties. One of those days that happens once in a great while…

11.8′ and 800cfs on the gage.