Reflections on the common carp – Cyprinus carpio

So I spent a few days traveling to far off places in search of feeding fish that might take a fly and I was intent on avoiding any of the fall glamor species and the crowds that go along with it. Don’t get me wrong, I’m as ardent a fan of these species as any. I’m not about to lay off. Though I find myself put off by the crowds they seem to draw at the right place at the right time. Often, it seems as if there should be a ™ symbol by Madison River Brown Trout or Skagit River Steelhead™. But I can’t argue, when it’s on for these species, things are as good as they get – powerful fish, beautiful surroundings, and often some sort of technical challenge to give it all a cerebral element. Fish the pmd hatch on the Henry’s Fork and be off by a fraction of a size, color or emergence stage and you’re most likely going to be out of the game. Get it all right, and earn the honor of being able to walk away satisfied, if not a bit smug, over your fly fishing prowess. Ha!

Meanwhile, all those lowland waters that get driven over on the way to that Notable River™ are often teeming with the oft overlooked, but supremely challenging common carp, Cyprinus carpio. They are at once victim, persecuter and abhorrence. But think it through from a fly fishing perspective:

1) Carp are widespread and where they occur are often abundant.

2) They can reach large sizes.

3) They are not native, thus no worries about hurting the last vestiges of some wild strain.

4) They frequent shallow water where they feed often and visibly. No need for trying to hit the two hour hatch window.

5) They can be ultra-spooky. Think size 12 hook hitting the water and sending them scurrying.

6) Their dietary habits can range from the specific (fallen seeds) to the general (general bottom feeding), providing a range of fishing situations that must be addressed.

7) They are powerful.

With that in mind, I loaded up the truck with my pram, a couple of fly rods and a handful of what seemed like possible carp flies. I had two specific river locations in mind and a handful of lakes to check along the way. At every filling station along the way, the pram in the back would draw a comment and when I told them what I was after … the response was predictable “CARP!??” But it turns out everyone, and I mean everyone has a carp story. And this is good, because unlike a secret trout stream, or salmon hole, people will offer up any number of spots teeming with carp. This was a good thing for this out-of-towner. Talking carp also automatically puts you in “local” status. Your even with everybody else. You’re not some rich out-of-towner who got lost on the way to Such-and-Such Creek®. You’re after carp…

So the lakes I checked out were way out in the middle of the sagebrush and some old fisheries reports had listed carp as present but I found the water quality to be too poor for ideal fishing, or the fish just weren’t showing when I pulled up. I did find a spectacular new rock hounding spot, though, and that will be preserved for a future trip.

The first river I knew contained carp and lo-and-behold they were there: mudding, finning, grazing. However, the water was a bit too turbid for what I considered proper sight fishing and it was too weedy as well. Many fish were simply grubbing deep in the weeds. Sometimes, they were right on shore, their heads buried in a tangle of weeds, backs out of water. These fish weren’t really fishable. I did manage to land one and hook one more by eyeballing fish in deeper water that were mudding. The mud trails in the current gave away their location and a dozen casts later – casts that had to land on a dime – would result in a slight turn of the fish that suggested it might have inhaled the fly. Often wrong, sometimes right, it was tough fishing and not the situation I had scripted in my head. Off to clearer waters….

I made it to the big river. Nearly a mile wide, water visibility approaching ten feet and it’s shoreline bordered by a shallow fringe – sometimes cobble, sometimes sand and carp were visible at great distances. Another gas station tip landed me at some roadside path through a field of sticker bushes to the broadest expanse of sand flats I’ve ever seen in a river. The forecast that day called for light winds. The water at 9:00 am was glassy smooth and with the bright sun rising, this felt more like the bonefish flats of Christmas Island than some large river more known for its salmon runs and fish killing dams. And there was the first ripple on the water followed by the waving tail of a carp grubbing bottom. The tail disappears and the slight ripple on the water vanishes and all this could easily go unseen. The flats are a mixture of open, barren sand punctuated by a few cruising carp, with patches of aquatic vegetation that the carp seem drawn to.

They are ultra spooky in the calm, clear water and the “plink” of a weighted fly can send them off. More often, they seem to slowly amble away rather than flat out bolt. Some fish seem to feed leisurely while others are more intent about it. These are the ones that I will eventually find success on. They won’t move far for a fly, but I did have one jerk its head over about 6″ to grab my tiny rubber legged concoction as i slowly crept it along the bottom. What a sight!! Most of the time, the cast has to literally fall on a dime. Sometimes you can get away with overcasting then slowly stripping in the ‘the zone’ but that risks lining the fish, and if it sees the fly coming at them, it will most likely scurry away. Most memorable fish was one spotted tailing around a small pocket of weeds. I spent several minutes creeping up to accurate casting range. A half dozen casts later the fly sank perfectly, I saw a flick of its head, a puff of mud and I knew it was on. Into the backing it went and a long, slow lumbering run. I was under-prepared with my 7 wt rod. These fish are just too heavy to effectively manage. Next time will be an 8wt – at least.

The breeze stayed at bay until about 1:00 when the first ripples made sight fishing more difficult, and I had already had my fill. I suspect I’ll be craving this again, come next summer.

The Pizza Diary

I don’t know when the affliction began. I think it was the nettle-preserved lemon pizza at Regazza in San Francisco over the winter. The papery crust really hooked me and a seed was planted. My early experiments, while satisfying, were nowhere near my idea of a good pizza. In my mind, the crust would make the pizza – everything else was just a formality. My doughs were overworked and lacked good crumb structure. More research ensued. I started a yeast culture – figuring if I was gonna dive into this world of yeasted breads, I better have a culture on hand. Little did I know, the sourdough culture I was about to develop would add an added layer of complexity to the whole process. I dove into books, internet forums and the occasional pizza slice out was analyzed and critiqued. I soon realized that if I wanted a real crust to develop in my humble home gas oven, I would need a better stone. I landed on a cordierite slab after getting scared off by the sheer weight of a soapstone slab – plus, the soapstone would probably take too long to heat through for my low volume of baking. Next in line was a digital scale. Most recipes and discussions stressed the need for exact weights of ingredients for dough making. Dough was talked about in terms of percent hydration, multi-day fermentations and crumb structure. If I was going to go for it, I had better roll up my sleeves and get kneading. And knead I did until my arms were tired, the floor a mess and dirty bowls piled everywhere. What I really needed was a solid stand mixer. Again, if I was gonna go for it, I needed the right tools, and the best tools. I found a used Hobart N50 on ebay. These things are widely regarded as one of the best stand mixers on the planet – with the design essentially unchanged since they were first introduced way back in the 40s or thereabouts. They can mix concrete, winch a truck out of the mud, and knead a dough to a gluten-y goodness.

 

A Tough Go for an Afternoon

Yesterday, on my way back from a field trip to the south, I was toying with the lines of a poem. It was solidly late afternoon, with a dipping sun coloring the dried, grassy hills a buttery hue. The temperature was about right, with the window down and it felt like this might be one of the last real summer days.

The light moves across a life gone easy.

That was yesterday. Since a Sunday river trip was in order, and since life seemed solidly in the good zone… a routine trip would yield a few routine steelhead, thus rounding out an exceptional weekend in this life gone easy. You can see where this is leading…

The salmon have arrived BIG TIME and in the water around Little Argentina they were showing two, three or more at a time. I knew they were in when I pulled up to the water, an otherwise calm early afternoon, with gentle waves rippling the surface from fish porpoising throughout the long, slow water. A black bear scampered away down the far bank. But the sun beat down hard and warm and despite two passes through I could only manage one decent fish that parted ways on a great tarpon-like leap. It looked to be 18 inches or so, putting it in the super-pounder zone. That was all I could muster save for a few juveniles that I was able to release by throwing a loop into the line and hopefully minimizing any trauma.

I packed it up and went up to lower-most Ice Cream where the same story (minus grabbing fish) played out as the first shadows crossed the far bank. The bottom of this run, if not the top, is usually dependable for a mystery tug or two (like last year’s freight train that snapped me off before I could even put a bend in the rod). Nothing doing.

Down to Stuarts to try the semi-fishy tail water and cross over to the bridge riffle. Maybe one decent tug – maybe.

I should have left later and focused on an evening outing, but it is what it is…. One of those fish-off-the-bite days, but more importantly, I was off the bite. I had too many things whirling around my head and just wasn’t as dialed in as I could have been. Often, it seems that when things are clicking, there is a synergy of angler and river – it all seems to come together just like it was supposed to be. It just wasn’t there today. In short, I was out of synch.

Maybe I was taking it all for granted, not really wanting it enough. After all, I did leave the house thinking I should stay put, do some chores, maybe get downtown and socialize a bit. The river felt like more of an obligation – I just might miss something if I don’t go. Having said that though, I was thinking today that I hadn’t fished enough so far this year and that it was passing me by. Nothing new for me. I always do well early on, have a lull day or two, think I’ve missed it all, only to arrive at some other end, in a paradise world of fall, first rain and an entirely new place. Today felt more like getting whisked up and swept along, so then, maybe the next stop is where I arrive.

Oh hell, the fish just weren’t biting today.

The Ebb and Flow … By the Moon?

The couch potato fishing schedule. Usual Sunday morning Americano and paper at Brio to start the day, whip up a brunch at home, and leisurely contemplate a trip inland. Scattered thunderstorms in the forecast could make for an interesting afternoon. A routine drive contemplating which piece of water to work first. Rig up at house-sized boulder and fish it down to sea monster without even a grab. Started out with a large “special hackle” spey fly then switched over to a smaller more subdued coot spider. Nothing doing.

The big riffle was occupied so that made the decision easy. Although I like having the river to myself, and I often do, sometimes finding someone on a favorite run takes away some of the decision-paralysis. Head up to town and do a pass through the hotel run – a fellow across the river is blaring his radio and tending to his pot garden on the terrace above the river. It wafts down to the river, but the breeze soon kicks up to carry it all upstream, including much of the radio blare. I nab a small adult right in the dependable seam where they always are, but lose it after a bit. I see another, or possibly the same, adult splash in the same spot, but can’t dupe it on numerous casts and flies. Two missed grabs and the afternoon breeze turns full tilt.

I pack it up and wander down to the super secret tailout water. After this afternoon, I think I am officially dubbing it Little Argentina… wide open, expansive water and a relentless breeze that kicks whitecaps up the river and through the heart of the best water. It requires a long, deep wade over numerous sneaker boulders, then hunkering down, facing the wind head on, and pumping water loaded overhead casts right into the teeth of it. Sometimes the casts fail miserably, but it’s just part of this place. You either resolve to go at it head on, or get your ass kicked and whimper off to some sheltered leisure water. You won’t know until you try and today was one of those near ass kicking days, where you just have to suck it up, snarl right back at it and put forth your best into the maelstrom.

I cock my index finger on the line to feel any grabs in the chop and try to keep the tip up a bit to avoid the wind waves slapping at the tip. In any conditions, this is subtle water, but is ALWAYS good for at least grabbing fish, if not fish to hand. And the fish here are always showy, so there is usually something to keep me dialed into the water. One of my biggest adults came out of this water – water that many boats will pass by because it just doesn’t have that textbook setup to it. But look closer and all the ingredients are there: chest deep water moving at a fast walking pace over a coarse bottom. But put a little wind on top of it and it goes largely unnoticed by most. True to form, it lives up to its dependability and a half dozen fish are either landed or LDR’d.

No adults to hand today, but that’s what next time is for. Today was definitely work to get fish: maybe it’s the full moon? Two weeks ago, fish were on the grab, not so much today. I call it an early day as the sun sinks into a hazy sky and the farthest edges of thunderheads borne out over the Trinities reach out west and north in tendrils to dampen to light. A special evening on tap, no doubt, but I got what I came for, avoided a butt kicking, and there is always the promise of next time.

On the walk out of Little Argentina I scavenged the river margins and found a couple of “special hackles” that will make fine new spey flies for the next outing… And in town two elderly ladies set up a table selling the ripest, sweetest figs off their trees – weighed on a rusty old Montgomery Wards scale that really doesn’t do much weighing anymore and a price is agreed to more by sight than anything the scale might tell.

The best time of year is RIGHT NOW.

There it is … by the clock

The afternoon wind never quite makes it today. And it’s warm … really warm for this coast-bound wader. It never really dawned on me to make the dash over the hill any earlier. I got off work, the idea of being on the water for nightfall stuck in my head and a mad dash to the sweet water on the middle river. Fishing before 6:00pm. One cast to get the line out, and the next three casts with two fish to hand – big, sassy half pounders  pushing past the 18″ mark – I think Dr. Welch called them “super pounders” when he first told me in 1986. Ten more casts and eight missed grabs or fish to hand … all the while a bright, hot sun glaring down. Throw in a few long, slow mystery grabs along the way. The fish-per-cast statistic, while sounding impressive, only really reflects my cheating by dropping right down into the bucket first thing. I’ll save the rest for dusk.

It’ll really be a swell evening, I think. I swing a long, wispy spider though the surface and watch a fish boil on it.

Then the transition happens, the sun dipping over the ridge, and somewhere after that, over the great horizon far off at sea. The crickets, frogs, caddis and bats all ramp up in song and flight. Curiously, the fish taper off to near nothing as darkness falls. This is not the first time this has happened here .. actually it seems to happen all the time here. Why is it that this place fishes so well from about mid-afternoon until evening then dies off? Surely, it’s not me taking another pass through? Regardless, the river at the witching hour is an ultra-sensory experience – bats swoop for a slow-cast fly, crickets and frogs rise and fall in mysterious unison and caddis zig-zag inches above the water. Nothing sums it all up better, except for the arc of an adult steelhead just as darkness descends and the woods behind me crackle with bears coming out for fresh black berries along the river bar. Not tonite….

Drag through the film and see the water boil ... about as simple a tie as any, and probably the most effective...
Bats catch the camera flash at dark

Ready, set, go…..

To hell with summer, the best time right now is 1:00 pm standing waist deep on the far side, hoping for that elusive early afternoon grab time. If we’re lucky the wind will tail off at sunset after a painful, frustrating, almost enraging wait for a quiet evening after a late afternoon lull.

That damned wind….

But then it all goes away, the light fades and the river erupts to life in a cacaphony of frogs, crickets, skittering bats, bears crashing somewhere off in the black woods and splashing fish.

Teeming.

Stand, listen and it all becomes a crazy, pulsing choir sung at some hipster-gone-bad church on the river where god’s nothing more than snot-slick cobblestone … and just as it all seeps into the inky blackness of night, the silver flash of adult steelhead can barely be seen arcing through the once quiet water.

At least that’s the way I remember it.

Swing the long hackles over a known adult lie on the third pass through as night is about to run you off the river
Durable, dependable and deceptive. If there was a generic brand fly, there'd be a simple white box full of these with black letters: "STEELHEAD FLIES - Use With Caution"

Giant Spring Creeks in Afternoon – part I

In mid-afternoon, the wind fails to materialize and the bluff provides a view across an immense, lush underwater garden. The water, lots of it, moves silently through beds of bright green aquatic vegetation. Here and there, fish hold down deep, next to the protective cover of the weed beds, sometimes jockeying for position, but mostly just sitting, almost motionless. Now the river is open and exposed, almost empty looking and untantalizing. Off to the side a small fish noisily splashes after something, a fallen ant, or maybe just the hint of a bug hovering overhead. Except for the splash of that fish, or maybe an upset duck, the water doesn’t make a sound. It just goes about its downhill slide like it always has. How so much moving water can be so silent… Siesta time on a big spring creek.

Summer River

I’m thinking of compiling a bunch of stanzas over the course of the summer, each being a separate evening on the river, and see where it goes. Of course, that begs the question when does summer begin and end!  So here’s an introduction, maybe, followed by a recent evening. We’ll see how this pans out – guess I better spend some time on the water in the evening!

.

The smell of river hangs in the trees.

Dangling on the buzzing songs,

Of birds and bugs.

Heaps of them

Appeared just yesterday!

.

The days don’t seem long,

But they stretch beyond August now,

What they will soon call the dog days.

.

Now, we have frog days,

That linger into this night,

An evening of cricket thickets,

Water noises and screeching night birds.

.

A pulsing choir to send us on our way.

.

Last night, a sudden and certain pause:
Sprays of lightning danced overhead,
crackling off in every direction.
And the last bit of setting sun,
Spilled golden light underneath everything,
Casting a rainbow over the far bank.
 
May31.
And now the rain, showery waves
Wavering by day, singing lullabies by night
This is the rain you were warned about
Where picnics run and hide
And chefs delight in warm dishes from the hearth.
Sustaining, despite our cries for ice cream
and secret swimming holes at the ends of dirt roads.
 
July 11.
Afternoon hangs on here,
Like a cruel gift of time
For people who never give up.
 
 August 4.
Just for a moment,
Afternoon sneaks in a rattling breeze
Shaking little poems from the leaves
Giggling like children passing secrets
In a playground, just before the bell rings.
 
October 26.
Maybe summer exhales in the evening now,
More likely an afternoon,
When sun and light and water play
For just a while, before it all quiets down
But maybe, just maybe,
Summer might tell one last quiet bedtime story.
 

Celebrating Spring with Food

Here on the coast, Spring seems to launch itself in full force one day, hunker down the next all the while building to the next crescendo of a calm, sunny morning. Up in the hills, still soggy and chilly from yesterday’s rain, black trumpet mushrooms are scattered under the tan oaks secretly playing the songs of a passing winter. Craterellus are a bit difficult to spot, but once clued in, they can appear in scattered patches bursting through a forest floor littered with light colored tan oak leaves. Clean them up, saute’ with olive oil, butter, thyme and a wee bit of salt and pepper, add them to caramelized leeks, toss in a little creme fraiche at the end. Layer them with a bit of gruyere in a tart shell and you will be reminded that life remains solidly in the good zone. Serve with a salad of fresh spring arugula, last fall’s kabocha squash and roasted seeds and heaven can be found in every bite.

Velvetine landscapes of spring time
Black trumpet blowing it's song through the woods
A whole band blares out the tunes of spring time, good food and the coming of summer.
Mushroom-leek tart, arugula-kabocha salad and the clutter of a kitchen at work.