New Water in an Old Place

I started out under the Davis bridge far too early in the afternoon.  It’s a short run, a quick fish, a place to spend some time while the shade settles on the better water upstream.  I walked down in shorts and wading boots through an acre of dried thistles, blackberries and hundred degree heat – just the thing to toughen up the skin on the lower legs.

It’s still fishing the same as it was last year, but, save for the shadow of the bridge, the orientation of the river here keeps it too exposed, unlike December when this place never sees the sun all day.  But it was a chance to try a different rod with a sinktip.  This rod had given me some frustration in an earlier outing in the wind, so I wanted to give it a chance under better conditions.  I was in the groove with it now and found I could fish the entire river with the double spey and a much slower timing than the rod I left back up in the truck.  The wind was nearly non-existent and the smoke was creeping in over the ridges from seemingly all directions.  I did a pass through and decided to head up the road to the trail and walk into a favorite spot.  Upon arrival, a car was parked there, and although there is plenty of water to access from the trail, I decided to head back downstream to explore some new water that I had heard promising things about.  I like giving people space and only hope they can do it for me from time to time.

Since it was getting on in the evening, I knew I would be “committing” to this place since it was a short walk downstream and the upstream run was already occupied – it’s about that time of year when folks from far and wide start arriving – plus, it’s Friday – I was mentally prepared for this by having a pocketful of options to fish should one or the other be occupied.  I didn’t feel like having company tonite.  The water in question is at the end of a long pool/glide the size of a couple of soccer fields.  The water scoots along painfully slow until it spills over through a maze of small riffles and bedrock outcrops.  This spot changes from year to year even in a low water year like we just had.  Right before spilling over the riffle, the water picks up speed and has the potential for good holding water.

The thing about fishing new water is the unknown quantity that lies before you.  In familiar runs, the best lies are usually known and focused on at just the right time.  These are the places fished with a certain efficiency.  If the familiar place doesn’t yield fish, we are left to assume that the river is “slow.”  Sometimes fishing new water requires an I-don’t-care mood.  If I can find myself in this mood then I can usually settle down and be more methodical about the fishing rather than wasting myself with thoughts of “I should’ve gone elsewhere.”

I probably started too high on the tailout.  By the time I got into the faster, fishier looking water, it was getting dark.  A few bright salmon rolled in the moving water – suggesting that it did indeed hold fish.  The water was a much different layout than I’d seen before.  I couldn’t really find what I would call a sweet spot, but it looked good, nonetheless.  After a solid grab, I switched over to the skating fly – again, in the “I-don’t-care” mood and just wanting to see what was down here at the bottom of all this flat water.  Nothing on the skater – but the fixation with watching that fly skid across the water’s surface knowing that at any time all hell could break loose underneath is entertainment in itself.  Nearly time to go and I switched back over to a spider and landed a sassy half-pounder.  By the time I got to the bottom, an almost full moon was peeking over the trees.

I don’t feel like I had a chance to really fish the run – it deserves another trip and provides an excellent late evening backup to the oft-fished run above.  I shall return.

Notes on the food prepared for this trip:  Since food is such an integral part of this season, I should mention that prior to leaving I was able to use some of the potent brandywine tomatoes mixed with a little sliced garlic, pepper and tossed with olive oil, sea salt and basil.  There is a fellow at the Saturday market that has, hands-down the best tomatoes – they are small but full of a sweet tangy flavor that makes even those of us who are not tomato disciples take notice. Taken to the river on ice and eaten chilled in only a small amount it is the perfect compliment to a warm September afternoon.

Diced tomatoes and a wee bit of sliced garlic tossed with olive oil, basil leaves, pepper and sea salt provides the perfect little pick-me-up on the river.
Diced tomatoes and a wee bit of sliced garlic tossed with olive oil, basil leaves, pepper and sea salt provides the perfect little pick-me-up on the river.
Looking upstream from the tailout - a smokey sky and lots of wide open flat water. I will prbably return here to better learn the water that lies behind where I'm standing.
Looking upstream from the tailout - a smoky sky and lots of wide open flat water. I will probably return here to better learn the water that lies behind where I stand.

A watery decision

experimenting with iced coffee again…

The road rounds the bend dropping into the valley.  From this view much of the river can be seen.  The late afternoon wind still ripples the calmer water at the bottom of the Campbell Run.  If I were to drive to the waters edge there, I would be greeted by the hot winds and I could stare into the clear water and see every stone.  Yet I know this place will come alive once the sun has gone behind the mountain and the crickets start chirping.

Along the road a few of the maples show their weariness of summer with curling leaves, maybe a hint of yellow here and there.  It’s just too hot right now.  If I drive beyond the valley and through the gorge, the wind will pick up- drawn from the sea to feed all this heat and rising air.  Today, the water just seems to run down to the sea only to escape the heat.  The urgency isn’t here yet – it’s just not time.  Driving on, I remember the place where we pulled off to let Greg dispose of his “sack” – he’d been quietly puking the entire, wild drive over the windy dirt road.  The gas tank had a pinhole leak somewhere near him that flooded the backseat with wretchedness.  But we had to get somewhere.

Now I can stare into the water and see everything – like looking into another’s eyes and seeing their soul – the color of the rocks, the small fish that hold in the current.  In a few months it will be a different river, and I might decide, again; this is not the place to be.  In a few months I may well not be able to peer into that same soul – now harboring secrets that are surrendered only slowly and with gentle persistence.  And I may not find the patience for them to surface – because I have to get somewhere.  And this becomes the challenge; balancing an ever-hoped for patience with the knowledge there might be something else just around the next bend.  Sometimes none of it ever works- the patience isn’t there, the next bend isn’t just right, and I just keep looking for that just-right somewhere.  But sometimes it all comes together – usually unexpectedly – despite all my best planning and scheming – suddenly realizing that I’m right where I need to be at just the right time and nothing more is needed.  That’s usually when it happens best.

A Passing Summer Returns

DRAFT In progress………

In August,

we thought we had forgotten.

And upon arrival,

We realized we had to just continue.

“I will never leave you.”

Whispers old lady summer.

By September, a rhythm

Only upset by a single cold morning.

“Aren’t I beautiful?”

In October a hope arises,

None of this will end.

“Stand by me, my sweets.”

By November,

Moments can be perfect, fragile, then lost.

“Please, not now… Why?”

In December,

The last leaf falls

On a rising wind

And we hope we will never forget.

“Because we will meet again.”

Looking upstream from the North-South run, a thickening storm at sunset paints a mid-October sky. Back home, they thought we were just goofy boys playing with fish. To those who knew, who really knew, they could tell you it had little to do with the fish…
Looking upstream from the North-South run, a thickening storm at sunset paints a mid-October sky. Back home, they thought we were just goofy boys playing with fish. To those who knew, who really knew, they could tell you…

Intoxicants

The smell of black berries fermenting on the vine is sweet and syrupy – the result of daytime temperatures pushing one hundred degrees.  A wall of smoke hangs down in the gorge with a spotter plane and occasional air tanker dropping in low.  The half pounders grab hard and as the night bugs start to sing, so does my reel as a small adult yanks hard and long.  My first adult steelhead on the two-handed rod – small by any standards, but made up for with a hard grab and long, finger rapping run.  He was sitting right in the seam where I had nabbed a few last year and this was my second pass through the run for the evening – one of those nights when I left work with the intent of fishing only one spot at just the right time.  A river to myself, no wind, fish landed and a crescent moon on the horizon coming home after dark.

Air heavy with sweet, syrupy aroma of late summer black berries, still in tee-shirt, the night bugs just starting to sing, and an adult steelhead just released... add in a half dozen half pounders. Does it get much better than this?
Photos do little here.  The air heavy with the sweet, syrupy aroma of late summer black berries, still in tee-shirt, the night bugs just starting to sing, and an adult steelhead just released... add in a half dozen half pounders - Does it get much better than this?

Estuaries, tides and the hottest fish on the planet

About every nine days or so, the tides line up just right so that the bottom of a big outgoing tide lines up with sunset (plus or minus).  I guess you could cut this cycle in half if you included the early morning as well – which can also be productive, but requires an early rise.  As the tide runs out, and approaches its bottom, all of the suspended algae has been flushed out of the estuary and, for a few hours, the normally trickling river runs like a much bigger river.  If the wind dies off in the late afternoon, the ingredients are in place.  If a wall of fog comes crashing across the estuary about that time, then it’s icing on the cake.

Sight fishing for steelhead is the game.  Most of the time they will be moving, giving themselves away with a distinct wake.  Often, there is a lead fish with more, sometimes many more, behind and underneath.  I don’t think I’ve ever hooked one of these pass-by fish.  However, there are moments when the fish will station up in the outgoing tide and hold.  Often they will give themselves away with just the tip of a tail pushing out of the water, or the subtlest swirl – these fish can be biters!  I will go down there ten times, and maybe once all four things will come together: wind, tide, light level, and holding fish.  If you can fool one on the fly, these are arguably the hottest fish on the planet at that very moment – screaming line of reels and ending up across the river before you even knew what happened.

I spent one morning casting to several fish swimming in a slow circle, the size of bathroom, say, occasionally showing themselves with a fin or subtlest of wakes.  It was probably just like the ‘daisy chain’ that mating tarpon are known to form.  Finally, after about an hour of careful casting (did I say that they were spooky in the low, clear water?) a fish grabbed and was instantly into my backing and cartwheeling hundreds of feet across the way before I could gather myself and restart my heart.

These fish are amazing and while the chance of hooking up can be extremely low, these fish, when hooked, are nothing short of powerful.  The saving grace to all of this, is that the esatuary is a fantastically beautiful place to be while the sun sets – covering everything in honey-colored light if the fog stays away.  If the fog comes in, the place becomes an eerily dark, quiet piece of water fading into grayness.  Shorebirds usually dance along the flats at low tide adding to the amusement.

Day 1 on the job

Today I reported to work for my first day on the job as area geologist for a certain agency in northern California.  All of a sudden, the landslides, floods, erosion, streamflows, earthquakes and other natural processes that are known to besiege this country from time to time are now my problem.  Well, not a ‘problem’ per se, but fall under my watch – so to speak.  It will be an immensely new challenge for me, and I am very excited and grateful to have been given the opportunity to develop many of my own programs across the landscape.  And what’s best about it all – is that it’s not all mine – but “ours” – I felt that.

After ten years at my previous job, today wasn’t easy for me.  There is the old building where I used to work at, and when I walked in the door at the beginning of a day, I was intimately familiar with the environment I entered.  Today, I walked through a completely new door, into a building I had only been in a handful of times, to an entirely new set of faces.  Some folks I already knew and that was helpful.  Of course, I walked into a place where everyone else knew the environment they were in – were intimately familiar with it.  What I found was a generally happy group of folks that were willing to help out, engage in small talk and welcome me aboard.  Some spoke to me personally – telling me how well everyone worked together and pitched in for the common goals – something that was perhaps straining at times at my old place of employment – or perhaps I had been there too long and had somehow become removed from it all.  I was impressed about how everyone seemed determined to do their jobs in a professional yet casual manner – not needing to be told what to do and doing it all with a seeming relaxed ease – At least that’s the day one impression.

Lunch special – Broccoli Polonaise

Needed a hearty helping of vegetables after yesterdays cholestorol-fix breakfast.  In keeping with the gratin theme, I was motivated by Prof. Steve Holzinger’s article”All About Gratins”

The Broccoli Gratinee sounded fairly straightforward:  butter, breadcrumbs, parmesan seasonings over crisp steamed broccoli baked in a hot oven.   The parmesan was to be added at the end of the butter-breadcrumb mixing and the mixture may have been too hot and set in the pan before being transferred to the gratin dish.  After a quick ten minutes in the oven it was set to cool.  Despite the dryness – it was super yummy – I couldn’t have ordered up a better lunch.  This recipe will require some further contemplation – reminding me of the old adage “Think before you Cook!”

Saturday Night Wind Party

Featuring Steady Eddy and the Gusts…

I bailed out from an evening on the town with a pretty yound lady to chase rumours of a windless afternoon over the hill.  The wind was manageable when I got there, then proceeded to &*%#ing howl.  As the sunset over the hill, the wind lapsed for about 30 seconds and I thought that would be the start of a pleasant evening.  Nothing doing.  You could hear the big whoosh coming up the canyon before you ever felt it.  Fishing in the wind is hardly ever the ideal situation.  If it’s steady, you can adapt the casting stroke and manage it all fairly well.  However, where I was at – a kink in the canyon where the wind funnels through a neck and turns more to the northeast – it came through in pulsing, swirling waves.  The riffle at the downstream end of the run would cast a showery mist into the air with each new push of wind.

I did manage my casting fairly well – with some unseen blunders – and managed three half pounders to hand and a few missed grabs.  A slow evening – maybe I should have reconsidered my priorities and stuck to the evening-on-the-town plan, but at least I got it out of my system – for a couple of days at least.

Memories of Kiribati

As I was cleaning up my old computer files at work, I came across all of the Christmas Island photos I had stored.  What a great trip.  Spent over two weeks on the south pacific island (woulda been exactly two weeks if the plane hadn’t been a couple of days late in picking us up).  I thought I would post a couple of photos while I was thinking about it…

Flying over the largest coral atoll in the world and looking towards the lagoon opening on the wouthwestern side.
Flying over the largest coral atoll in the world and looking towards the lagoon opening on the southwestern side.
View out over the lagoon showing the maze of land, sand and water.  If you look closely in the foreground you can see a jeep trail that we used to acess these interior portions of the lagoon.
View out over the lagoon showing the maze of land, sand and water. If you look closely in the foreground you can see a jeep trail that we used to access these interior portions of the lagoon.
Fellow angler Andy and me all smiles - somewhere near the equator.
I really liked this photo because it captured the always changing vistas on the vast expanses of white sand flats.
I really liked this photo because it captured the always changing vistas on the vast expanses of white sand flats.
This sums up the moment - a fish is spotted and a cast is made.
This sums up the moment - a fish is spotted and Peter makes a cast.
Yours truly aspiring for the cover GQ magazine.
Yours truly aspiring for the cover GQ magazine.