Celebrating Emerald Water

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything fish related – anything at all, for that matter. To that end, I thought I would get down in the weeds with steelhead.

As usual, a difficult decision hung over a potential outing for Sunday:

Option 1: Travel inland where big rainbows would likely be surface feeding on emerging baetis on the wide waters during the early afternoon. The weather forecast supported this option with warm cloudy skies and a chance of rain with calm winds. More forecasted rain would have been nice for the baetis, but, still, the prospects looked good. I had done this trip last month and was satisfied all around with the day. It’s just an ideal fix, a little taste of summer in the middle of winter. What could be better than the chance at a 20″ rainbow on a small dry fly? well….

Option 2: Travel south to a certain secret Lost Coast river in hopes of connecting with a wild steelhead on a deeply swung fly. Despite most other rivers being unfishably high, the gage showed this river at ideal levels. I was a little skeptical of the gage – we had just come off a significant peak flow two weeks ago, so the gage might be off. Yet, looking back, the tell-tale signs of a gage re-adjustment were showing on the graphs – so I had most every reason to believe the displayed flows were accurate – save for all the surrounding rivers being too high. It would be a bit of a gamble. And if it was right on, wouldn’t half the county be there fishing?

These decisions are not made lightly. Every possible aspect is weighed and revisited while trying to fall asleep with still no plan.

I arrived at option #2 early the next morning. The rain forecast for inland had been trimmed back more – pulling it a tad farther away from ideal than I wanted. Plus, it was really mild overnight – perfect for coastal rivers and their fish. Off we go with spey rod in hand…

Describing the “perfect” water color for coastal stream steelhead fishing is a fun intellectual exercise, but, in reality, it either is “sweet”, “not quite”, or “blown.” The first look at the river usually produces one of these responses. A blown river is pretty straightforward – keep driving, find something else to do, or go home. Not quite water is usually a recipe for a fruitless day. It’s the type of water that doesn’t call to you. You have to go to it. Sweet water is rarely debated. It is mysteriously green – just clear enough to reveal a glimpse at a secret underwater world, but dark enough to be mysterious and engaging. Green water draws you to it. You can’t just pass by it. When you walk up to it, the water beckons closer inspection. Lighter-colored rocks are visible in the deeper runs, maybe. It’s the color of water that seems to match the body of a steelhead perfectly. The bottom is full of ghostly shadows, movements and colors. The thing with perfect water is that it gets even better after a day or two. What’s perfect one day is even better the next and so forth until one day it’s suddenly too clear – just like that – or the rain kicks up again and the whole process starts over again.

The other challenge is trying to find the water that is optimally fishable with heavy sinktips and weighted flies. These are usually the broader runs and slots. I don’t want to rule out the narrower chutes and deeper pools, and many more accomplished folks will fish these as easily as any other water. But, for me, finding that wider water, where the bottom wells up in gentle slicks along the surface and maybe fans out a bit before reaching the next riffle is the ideal. Take this water and litter the bottom with larger cobbles and smaller boulders, with stripes of sandy gravel between, and an afternoon could be spent probing it’s depths. For me the challenge is finding the right pace of fishing through the run before I get bored of it, but being able to cover it entirely. I could exhaust myself refining each swing so that a new piece of bottom is covered before I even take a step. If I fish through too fast, I don’t cover the water. If I fish too slow, I get antsy and lose my focus in critical water. Therein lies part of the challenge: with water this good, it ALL looks critical. So the fishing becomes a waltz between intuition, persistence, and being able to just move on. When in new water, there is the temptation to fish too fast through great water thinking that even better water lies around the next bend, which may or may not be true. Then there is the dilemma of the surfacing fish in difficult water. The splashy chromer in that fast, deep trough may draw more time and energy than would otherwise be alloted to such marginally fishable water. Here, fishable being a deep, slow swing. Not that it can’t be done….

Finally it all comes together in a piece of water that just seems designed for a marriage between steelhead and fly. The notion that better water lies around the next bend is still there, but this is the type of water that seems to evoke some forgotten memory of being taught what “perfect” water is. The swing is perfect, the water itself seems somehow apart from the rest of the river. This little piece has been set aside to a place where time gets thrown out, intuition and persistence merge and the game is on.

Fresh winter steelhead don’t always attack with ferocious abandon – that say a late winter/early spring runback might do, or a warm water fall fish. It’s that stop in the middle of a swing covering nearly the same water for the third time. This aint no rock. Rather, it’s all about that first lift of the rod into a blur of deeply pulsing rod, knuckle-busting reel, and a split-second mental hesitation – is this for real? It can happen that fast, and when the fish holds; the water, the river, the landscape suddenly opens up. For me, it then becomes not finding some philosophical essence to the moment, rather, it’s all about adrenaline. It’s the stuff that leaves us shaking. After releasing such a fish, we might find ourselves walking a bit taller, speaking a bit more confidently and just feeling all around satisfied about everything. It’s the stuff that will carry with us for a day or two, maybe a week? Then, that critical urge will rise up again. And a decision will be at hand.

Even from far away, the calling of sweet water can usually be felt. With this view, there was no question.
We can debate perfection, but that's just it - even perfect water can get better.
Wild winter steelhead on a swinging fly.
Mirror to another dimension

Time again…

 

Darkness sets in on arguably some of the best steelhead fly fishing on the planet this time of year ... all whipped to a frustrating froth by a wind that refused to ease up at sunset.

Right on schedule … mark calendars … Fall has begun and now is the time to convene at the river…

All the willow trees, blackberry bushes and dried grasses are almost the same as last summer. Except the blackberry crop this year is late, owing to the late rain and cool summer. This probably also explains the lack of algae along the rocks in the faster sections of river; the streamflows were likely high and fast enough into the summer to preclude the development of slippery substrates through much of the faster moving water. In places, the river bed is stunningly clear. Water quality is correspondingly improved as well (except for temperatures which are their usual late summer stressful levels). The relatively stable footing on the clean riverbed is an entirely new sensation for these parts at this time.

Right on time, as in years past, a weak front moved through yesterday moderating water temperatures and raising hopes of a windless afternoon. No such luck. The winds were strong and unabating into the evening making Slate Creek a “wind whipped hellhole” as I was prone to calling it long after the sun had sunk below the ridge. Despite this, the fish did come on the bite as darkness started creeping in. All half-pounders, with a back-to-back hookup at one point. Maybe four fish to hand and a few more LDR’d on a floating line. Very difficult conditions in the wind to control line, swing and patience. Regardless the fish are here. Did a quick pass through house-sized and sea-monster early with nothing. No fish showing on top at Slate Creek until near darkness, but difficult to see and hear in the wind-stirred froth. Now, from here on out, it’s all a matter of watching water temperatures, prospecting windless afternoons and reminding the boss that I will be scarce until at least November. All social and domestic obligations will be thrown aside. The time has come to convene at the river…

The Copenhagen Sages of Weymouth

No Quandries on Solitude

They were hooking fish at the Holmes hole this morning – at least the boatmen were and I probably could have worked the run up top and easily tripled my odds of hooking fish. They were probably all salmon anyhow, and I really wanted a chrome bright early running winter fish.  I went downstream to a decent piece of water that rarely gets fished, had it to myself and even connected with fish, though not of the species I was after. Later, I went down river to a piece of water I had always eyed through an opening along the road. It has always been one of those gotta-try-it-one of-these-days spots and I finally got around to doing it. Once again I had the water to myself and even landed a small steelhead.  Finally, I finished up the day by driving down around near Weymouth to see how all the redneck hardware chunkers had done for the morning. Sure enough, they had gotten a few and I couldn’t help but think that nobody probably fished the faster, steelhead water up top all day. I moved on towards home, content in finding a few pieces of water to myself rather than bellying up to the chew-spittin’ parking lots that mark a few of the more popular places along the river.

I had some stuff to work through in my head, which some alone time would allow me to attempt. But, as is so often the case, I didn’t find any resolution on my own, so maybe some time spent with the Copenhagen sages of Weymouth could have been an option. Still, though, there is nothing like being able to methodically work down through a piece of water without waiting for someone else to pull out, or getting cut off, or just forced to stay put.  I haven’t done that in years and I suspect I’ll be doing even less in the years to come. I probably won’t be calling with stories of twenty fish days, and when it does happen, nobody will believe me. Because nobody will have been around to see it.

Sketching Halloween’s Coming

Fishing the wide water
Fishing the wide water

Dark, quiet mornings linger almost to lunchtime before bright skies appear from nowhere. Here in the valley, this is late October in any year. A couple of rainstorms have put things in their place – the valley on its way into winter’s rest. A handpainted sign in front of the garden advertises free pumpkins and the tomato vines hang with rotting fruit still clinging fast. Out on the gravel bar, the water has dropped down nearly to summer levels showing a fresh stain of silt running along the edge from a good rain two weeks prior. In the foggy morning the river carries on with a soft murmering. Pumpkin-colored maple leaves hang over the water, waiting to test a soft breeze that might stir in the afternoon.

The mornings are always hard going now – soft grabs in the shadowed water make me wish I’d stop tying these flies with such damned long hackles. They just nip at the wispy trailing fibers – frustrating teases that come far too seldomly. The pass through campbell run is rhythmic and routine, maybe a bit impatient, since the best water always seems two steps below. I move down to fish the opposite side of the tee-pee and nab a feisty half-pounder right off, then get the one long, slow pull down deep – then nothing.

2:00pm. Move to new water.  Lowermost North-South. This run above the big bend at the bottom of the valley usually always holds a fish or two. The bright sun now shows the clear water sliding over the riffle at the bottom of middle North-South. I pause a minute to watch for moving fish. Nothing. Crossing is the usual half float, tip-toe dance down and across. I arrive at the lower run with fish showing up and down. Salmon porpoising – some bright, some dark. Steelhead splashing in the fast water. Sweet. By early afternoon the river is chattering away.

This is a long run and can consume the better part of an afternoon if fished thoroughly.  But the sweet spot is about the size of a car. Sure enough they soft-grab the swung fly and cannot hold on. Again and again, before it shuts off.  I leave the run to fish one more bit in this section that nearly always proves reliable and come up with a hatchery fish of maybe two pounds that tears into the backing before giving up and coming to hand. I move up to finish at upper North-South as the evening shadows creep across the water. Everything has gone quiet now. Evening here in late October is a subtle transition. Wood smoke filters down across the field in the still, heavy air. The pasture across the way bathes in honey colored light. And along the way, the river has returned to its shadowy mutterings.

Visiting my therapist and losing the last bit of composure

I went to see my therapist today. I’m always anxious to go and always arrive on time. My therapist doesn’t speak to me. But if I listen, I hear all about the subject matter. I just have to show up on time. I usually have trouble hearing for the first part of the session, but once we are underway, I figure out the lesson of the day.

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Another curious thing about my therapist who doesn’t speak to me, is that the location of our session  is always changing. There is no office to go to. I usually have a vague idea where it’s at, but never quite know for sure. Oddly enough, I always seem to show up at the right place, even though the lesson of the day may not be what I was expecting. Today I was expecting to hear about enjoying life without expectations. That’s what I thought I heard early on at least. Then, I got the painful truth. Today’s work would focus on frustration and learning to not beat myself up too badly.

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Today was about holding a sure thing in the palm of my hand only to see it slip away. But the irony of the session was that I never got to hold the thing in my hand – I was only led to believe that it would end up there. So I guess the original lesson of expectations still had some merit.

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Long story, short – I went to the river today expecting little. Had my hopes elevated with the sight of splashing steelhead. I even managed to briefly hook one before it broke me clean off. These were big bright fish. Now, shaking, a bit frustrated, but determined, I swim my marabou prawn through the water again and just where it should be – BAM – the solid grab and another broken line. If I write anymore about my feelings over this whole affair, it would not be appropriate for viewing by younger folks and others offended by certain four letter words.

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I have another appointment with my therapist late tomorrow afternoon. I already know the subject matter of the session.

Sandstone bluffs of the Wildcat Group provided the sounding board (read: echo) for the cursing and swearing that could be head along the river this afternoon.  Note the small hole near the center of the bluff - a drain hole for the railroad tunnel that passes through.
Sandstone bluffs of the Wildcat Group provided the sounding board (read: echo) for the cursing and swearing that could be head along the river this afternoon. Note the small hole near the center of the bluff - a drain hole for the railroad tunnel that passes through.

Elbow weather

Ok, we need the rain and the snow, and my elbow needs a break.  But now I’m certain that if I could just get back out on the river I could correct my cast with more bottom hand and my elbow problem would disappear.  The weather forecast suggests differently (from this evening’s forecast discussion):

A COLD FRONT WILL MOVE ACROSS NORTHERN CALIFORNIA TONIGHT BRINGING MORE
WIDESPREAD RAIN AND SNOW TO THE REGION. THIS STORM IS EXPECTED TO BE A
LITTLE STRONGER THAN THE LAST STORM...EXPECT THIS SYSTEM TO PASS OFF TO
THE EAST BY FRIDAY NIGHT WITH  ANOTHER PACIFIC STORM RIGHT ON ITS HEELS.
EXTENDED FORECAST MODELS IN GOOD AGREEMENT ON A FAIRLY STRONG FRONT MOVING
THROUGH THE CWA EARLY SUNDAY. A BRIEF BREAK IN  PRECIPITATION OCCURS TUESDAY
FOLLOWED BY ANOTHER SIGNIFICANT FRONT ON WEDNESDAY. THIS SYSTEM LOOKS TO BE
A LITTLE WARMER WITH A SUBTLE SUBTROPICAL TAP INTO MOISTURE DOWN AROUND 20-30N.  

Bring it on. I guess my elbow will just have to wait.
Need I say more?
Need I say more?

What is it?

Imitating no particular creature, pieces of fur and feather wrapped around a hook explode to life when in moving water.
Imitating no particular creature, pieces of fur and feather wrapped around a hook explode to life when in moving water.

What is it about moving water that draws us from afar?  Makes us skip out of work?  Entrances and enthralls us?  Excites us and soothes us?  From the tiniest trickle to the worlds largest rivers, we, as a species, seem drawn to moving water.  Whether for its life-giving, thirst-quenching sustenance, spiritual renewal, adrenaline rushes or simple relaxation,  I can think of no place where it can all happen.

For those of us who find an angling connection to moving water, there is that anticipation, excitement and hope that precedes each trip.  Even though we go to the same places maybe; we know full well that each time reveals an entirely new place.  Maybe only subtly different than the last time, beckoning close inspection.  Or, a changed riverscape, such as after a freshet or even a flood.  Always, there is an opportunity of discovery, of finding something new and different – perhaps overlooked during the last visit.

So, many of us get giddy with excitement about going to the same old places, fishing the same old water and hoping for the same old fish.  Because we know, deep down, that this time it will be completely different.

Finding the Soul of a Mid-winter river (or: caught naked in the sunshine)

Searching for ghosts
Searching for ghosts

At this flow, the tailout is infinitely large – and maybe a tad bit too deep to comfortably wade.  The water is running at six degrees this morning and a long pass through belly deep water would probably sap the life out of me – slowly and unknowingly.  So, I decide to drop the pram in the water and fish through it from the dry.  I didn’t know how the spey cast would work from the pram, thinking the edge of the boat might catch the forward cast as it left the water – not a problem and I managed easily with the circle, cack-handed circle and overhead casts.  I put the Blue Hope into the fly rotation – and, to jump to the punch line – the only grab of the day was on that fly – the slow pause on the deep swing.

I wade fished the run up top, below the bridge and did a pass through another piece of water and just could not get the fish to move.  I think there were fish in there, just too cold to excite them (though I don’t know who could resist pulsing yellow pheasant rump).  The water had a subtle green color, that gave just enough secrecy to the water to keep it interesting.  I ended up swinging a big piece of red meat (prawn) mid-afternoon thinking I could draw them from afar; shaking my head after each swing thinking it was nearly perfect.  Casting rhythm was good, lost track of time during each pass (lost in the swing), and generally fished everything well.  So maybe I did find the soul of this river today – passing along easily over the cobbles, happy in the doing, though craving just a bit more.

Amid bright sun and green water
Amid bright sun and green water

Preparing for the New Spey Rhythm on the Eel

Replacement camera arrived today.  Just in time for green water on the lower river.  I tied a few larger flies using pheasant rump and hackle-tip wings.  More to try out the camera than anything as the fly box is well stocked.  Hoping to do the early walk into Elinor bend where the river does a long sweep along the bank.

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